Thursday 6 November 2014

Elizabethan makeup



Blocking out eyebrows

 Due to some thorough research on the Elizabethans i learnt that the Elizabethan women used to plucked all their eyebrows and repaint them back on, therefore the blocking out the eyebrows technique is a good idea to incorporate into my final Elizabethan makeup design.
Before Applying any substances to they eyebrows it is important to ask the client, whether they have senstive skin if this is the case apply  a soap to the skin which is non scented. Another thing to consider is making sure the client is also not allergic to any creams such as cleansers toners and moisturizers which are likely to be used on the face if the client is allergic to these products it is possible to use other cleansers which are suitable for thier skin, if the client has sensitive skin there is also hyroallergic products which can be used to cleanse the skin.

Blocking eyeborws using soap

Firstly I applied toner to the eyebrows to remove any makeup on the eyebrows. Next using my angled brush and some soap and water created a soapy paste which will be applied to the eyebrows, before applying the paste to the eyebrows I applied  it to the back of the hand in order to make the substance more even. Next I brushed the soap through the eyebrows using an angled brush then pressed the substance along the eyebrows in order to make the eyebrows flat with no ridges or hairs outstanding, i had to carry this process out a couple of times to layer up the soap onto the eyebrows in order to make them flat.  Using a cotton bud and warm water i wipe away any excess soap around the eyebrows otherwise the makeup around the eyebrows will go patchy if its not removed .Once i was happy with the eyebrows i applied a loose powder from Illamasqua to the eyebrows to make them set.

Blocking eyebrows using prit stick

Firstly i applied toner to the eyebrows to remove any makeup sticking to the eyebrows . Nrext using a spatula and pritstick i pressed the glue into the eyebrows evenly in order to make the eyebrows flat with no ridges in order to make the eyebrows completely flat i had to carry this process out several times. Using a cotton bud and warm water i wipe any excess glue away from around the eyebrows, if the excess glue is not removed from around the eyebrows  this will leave  the makeup around the area patchy. Finally I apply Illamasqua loose powder to the eyebrows to seal the product.

Creating a simple Elizabethan look

Once i had completed blocking out the eyebrows, i then had to create a simple elizabethan look. Firstly i applied my Illamasqua matte skin base which is a white colour to the face ears and neck using my foundation brush, in order to make the makeup look more eveen i blended this in using the buffer brush. In order to completely block out the eyebrows i had to apply a few layers of the skin base to the eyebrows the blend the colour in using my buffer brush.
In order to add subtle colour to the cheeks i then mixed two of the colours from my blusher pallet a pink colour called 'TO' and a rosy red colour called 'youth red' using my blush brush i slightly blended the colour into the cheeks.
Using a red colour from my supracolour pallet i then applied colour to the lips, i order to make the colour on the lips look less harsh i applied my illamasqua loose powder to the lips to tame the colour down slightly.
I applied a white colour from my supracolour pallet to the eyelashes  by using a mascara wand  and brushing the colour up and down the lashes.
Finally to complete my look i used illamasqua loose powder which i rolled onto the face using my sponge in order to help seal the makeup onto the face.


When creating a simple Elizabethan look i found i was more confident applying a base colour to the face without it looking uneven, i also felt my blocking out the eyebrows techniques wasnt bad for a first attempt  however i feel what i could do in order to improve my makeup is to focus on symetry due to the shading on the cheeks being slightly uneven .

In the photograph of my first attempt at a simple Elizabethan style of makeup it is noticeable  that i need to focus on better application of the base colour around the nose due to the colour looking slightly patchy.




In the side view photograph of my first attempt at at Elizabethan style makeup i am generally happy with the outcome of the design however in the photograph it is noticeable that i needed to focus on applying and blending the colour in around the neck area.
 
After speaking to Sue about my attempt of creating a simple Elizabethan makeup look, she thought it was a good attempt and there was something about the way i applied the makeup which made the design look periodic. She also liked how i had applied the makeup base and felt my attempt at blockign out the eyebrows wasnt too bad either.
Sue felt the things i needed to improve on was making the look more symmetrical particularly on the cheeks and appyling a less of a harsh colour to the lips.

Contemporary Elizabethan makeup

During the lesson i attempted to create a contemporary Elizabethan makeup design, which incorporated many different techniques learnt from pervious lesson such as contouring application to the eyes and also blocking out the eyebrows.





During the lesson i attempted to create a contemporary Elizabethan makeup design, which incorporated many different techniques learnt from pervious lesson such as contouring application to the eyes and also blocking out the eyebrows
 
The Photograph from Vogue magazine Russia was my inspiration for the contemporary Elizabethan style of makeup i created. I really like the colours incorporated into the makeup design and how they have been applied.
 firstly I began by blocking out the eyebrows using soap which i made into a paste and then applied to the eyebrows using a spatula until i had built up enough layers making sure the eyebrows were also flat, in order to seal the eyebrows i applied my loose white Illamasqua powder over the top . I then applied several layers of my base cooer over top of the eyebrows and to the face neck and ears of my model, the base colour i used was the matte Illamasqua base foundation. Once the colour was applied to the face and looked even , i then began buffing the product into the skin.
Next using a brown from my Kryolan eyeshadow pallet i started to contour the convex areas of the face such as the cheekbones the temples and the jaw line.

I then applied ' white pepper' a colour from my Kryolan eyeshadow pallet to the eyelids and then shaded the socket area of the eyes using a darker brown from the pallet. I lined the top of the eyelid using a black eyeshadow and water from my  Kryolan pallet to bring out the eyes.

Finally to the lips i applied a  red colour LC009 from my lips pallet to the lips.



Once I had finished my contemporary look, I sealed the makeup using my Illamasqua loose powder. The improvements i could have made in my contemporary makeup was the colour and how I applied the makeup to the lips .

After I created my contemporary look i ask Sue what her opinion was of my attempt at creating a contemporary Elizabethan look. She thought the base colour i applied to the face was good but needed to be applied more on the forehead. She also felt the colour i had applied to the lips looked slightly messy and needed to be tidied up a little.

ELIZABETHAN MAKEUP

During the lesson we began working in our pairs on the final designs we had created. Due to my partner being absent  in the lesson i had to work with another partner and create a makeup look based on their final design in which they had created.

This was the face chart which my partner had designed for her final makeup look and which i had to use as a guideline in order to create her Elizabethan makeup design.

Firstly I began by blocking out the eyebrows for my partners final look i carried out this process by using prit glue and a spatula, once i had built up enough layers and the eyebrows were completely flat I then sealed the eyebrows by using the Illamasqua loose powder .
Next i mixed an olive fountain colour and Illamasqua matte skin base foundation to create the base colour for my partners design, i applied several layers of the colour to the eyebrows in order to block the eyebrows out and then applied the colour to the face neck and ears which i then buffed into the skin.

In order to add subtle colour to the cheeks i applied the R21 pink colour from my blusher pallet to the cheeks .

The Illamasqua pallets came in really useful when applying colour to the eyes. I used the Illamasqua sculpting powder as the base colour of the eyelid and then applied a metallic brown colour from the Illamasqua pallet to the darker areas of there eyelid. I also used a black from my illamasqua pallet to go over the top of the lash line which i applied using an angled brush.
In my partners design she also wanted a darker colour applied around the eyes and the bridge of the nose . I used a dark brown from my Illamasqua matte pallet in order to highlight this areas which i then blended into the eyelids using my blending brush.

I used a bright red from my lip pallet (LC007) to apply colour to the ups, using my angled brush and a black eyeshadow i highlighted the outline of the lips which i then blended into the red lip colour using my blending brush.

After speaking to Kat about my attempt at creating my partners final Elizabethan design she suggested the improvements i needed to work on, on my partners design was to make the shading around the eyes and bridge of the nose more curved and slightly darker in order to bring out the eyes, and also the application of the product around the noseI needed to apply the product to the area and then powder using my Illamasqua loose powder before buffing the product into the face .

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